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Brand NewFrom United StatesBuy It NowCustoms services and international tracking provided**Currently typing this up and adding to it ** stay tuned for updates **So you want a turbo LS series junkyard Mill powering your shitbox into a pavement punishing 'tyre fryer', and you're not sure where to start. Since this is the pandora's box of starting mountain sized arguements, Ill start with the minimal, tell you what I know and also give you my opinion on what is a waste of time and money. This can be as easy as going strait from the Junkyard into your car, or spend a small fortune on a stock engine, it all depends on the owner and your goals, and how much you want to spend.Alright, lets begin with, This is going to be budget minded, I will start by explaining what you need, get the car running, and then again more budget minded add ons maximizing power per dollar only, All Killer, no Filler.Engine SelectionThe standard junkyard long blocks, Including! but not limited too! the 4.8/5.3/6.0 in my favorite flavor, Tired Iron.Here is the bread and butter of the LS swap engines. Cheap, Effective, and manufactured in extreme bulk, 99-13ish (since 14 is now the direct injected LT series engine pouring in.) Vans, Trucks, Chassis, SUV's you name it. You can get lucky some days and maybe even find a ls1, ls2, l76, ls3, and some kind of car based alum engine. Or other crazy things, but don't count on it. Engine Codes and names and all that bullshit aside. ALL OF THESE ENGINES ARE EXCELLENT, quit being weird about needing a 6.0 only, or LS1-2-3 only. Listen, you have a budget, and you don't have a motor, Just get one and put it in the damn car.The LS engine family is known for having smaller proportions than its competitor’s engines, making it much easier to swap into cars with small engine bays. The Chevy LS platform is banned from some motorsports because it can be swapped into smaller cars and give them an unfair edge over the competition.I would say the most common is the 'LM7' 5.3l motor in the 99-03 years. the 4.8 sometimes easier to find since who would want a shitty 4.8 right?also people will tell you, only get a late model, or newer gen4 motor, talking about pistons and rods etc etc, Listen, the later year model engines do have 'better' or more robust rods, and they have a floating piston, but we have gone extremely fast with the 'shitty' gen 3 motors, and you can too... Furthermore, people will have the opportunity to buy a complete 4.8/5.3 for 500 dollars, oil pan to throttle, all coils, wires, sensors, etc. They will get what I commonly refer to as 6.0 envy, and instead, buy a 6.0 shorblock or largely incomplete longblock for 600+ instead. Stop and think, what the fuck are you doing. You're going to spend hundreds tracking down all the little nit pick shit to get that motor running. More commonly I have seen shit 6.0s for sale like this and people will buy into a problematic motor instead of just getting a running 5.3 or god forbit the junk 4.8.We have to go on here so I will end my tangent. You can refer to other articles on the site to get information about the engines and more on the heads, casting numbers, dimensions and more.Use your money wiselyThis sounds obvious, but get whatever engine is most complete and in known good shape for your dollar, easiest thing you can do is pull the valve covers and see how clean the valve train is, make sure there isn't a rod hanging out of the block and the engine spins with some drag meaning the rings are not total shit. This is a funny statement because we have had some absolute sludge beast motors, looked like they were filled with wax, smoked terribly but made tons of power problem free haha. Try to get the engine Oil pan, to throttle, including coil packs, be weary buying an engine from someone they disassembled, why did they take it apart? why would you take it apart, its assembled and running, don't fuck with it haha. Obviously the more you start with the less you have to chase down or possibly buy incorrectly. Once you get into the mind set of just adding 20 dollars in stuff on top of everything you are getting, your budget will go to shit and you wont know why... you could have had a running swap for 2000 and you spent 6000 dollars and you don't even have a turbo, and you are cursing me out.Early vs Late model Gen3-Gen4 EnginesLater year engines have benefits like better cyl heads, beefier rods and floating pistons, bear in mind they also come with bullshit like, DOD, VVT, expensive intakes and throttles, you will possibly need to buy items to delete and remove these things off the engine for performance setups, they might have failed or be ready to fail and give you issues etc. Keep in mind that you might need to spend the money on all these things when choosing a newer engine. My opinion is if you can get the 04-06 engine, 24x crank trigger, with beefier rods, and floating pistons, that runs all the old equipment pcm wise and has the most simple setups... In my opinion are the best engines to start with, since you will have room to grow pretty far, but still a simple start, and no complicated hardware.LS1-Gen3 style cam position sensor on the back of the block
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